Important
Facts About Cooling Your Home
Many
people condemn a home air conditioning system because it doesn't
keep the rooms as cool and comfortable in hot muggy weather as they
think it should. This may be unfair. A home air conditioner that
doesn't give satisfactory performance may have been incorrectly
selected for the job, but, more often, the family simply has not
learned how to live with it. They have to learn more about it and
how to take advantage of it.
Any
cooling system has definite limitations. It is the reverse of a
heating system. Family living habits that help the heating system
are arch enemies of cooling. The furnace or boiler delivers heat
into the rooms and the heat that is created within the house by
electric lights, cooking, the TV set, clothes washing, bathing,
etc., helps to heat the rooms. Just that much less is required from
the boiler or furnace.
Cooling
is just the reverse. The cooling equipment removes heat from the
house and any extra heat released into the rooms from these same
sources will make the room air warmer and place an additional burden
upon the equipment. Further, with heating we are primarily concerned
with the thermometer temperature, but with, cooling we are concerned
with temperature and relative humidity (the amount of moisture in
the air). Relative humidity is an important factor in comfort cooling
and the removal of moisture from the air is essential.
"BALMY"
VS. "MUGGY" The effect of humidity upon comfort can
be illustrated by a familiar outdoor condition. There are days when
the temperature is relatively high, yet is comfortable because the
air feels "balmy." That is because the relative humidity
is low. There are other days when the temperature is about the same
but there is discomfort from a "muggy" feeling and perspiration
does not dry on the skin. This is because the humidity is high.
That
same condition can exist indoors. The air must be both cool and
relatively dry for comfort. Unfortunately the process of cooling
air increases its relative humidity unless some moisture is taken
from it simultaneously. Consequently, the cooling unit must remove
both heat and moisture.
NO
MYSTERIES ABOUT COOLING There is nothing very mysterious about
the operation of your cooling unit. It resembles an enlarged version
of the electric refrigerator in your kitchen. The room air is drawn
into the unit by a fan first passing through a filter that removes
most of the dirt, dust and pollens. It next passes over the surface
of a coil that is cooled by a refrigerant circulating through the
inside of the coil. Here the temperature of the air is reduced about
15 to 20 degrees and then discharged into the rooms through ducts
and registers.
When
air from inside the home passes through the cooling coil, it loses
some of its moisture which collects upon the coil surfaces the form
of water and drains out on the ground. The quantity of heat and
moisture removed is established by the design of the cooling coil.
Most cooling units are adjusted to remove the maximum amount of
heat and moisture. Never lose sight of the fact that there is a
definite limit on its capacity to do either. A "ton" of
cooling capacity is the equivalent of the quantity of heat required
to melt one ton of ice in 24 hours. In technical jargon, this is
12,000 BTU per hour and a technical man may state the capacity in
terms of BTU per hour.
IMPORTANCE
OF PROPER REGISTERS Your central cooling system utilizes a single
cooling unit to air condition the entire home. The ducts in the
floor are used to distribute the air to all the rooms of the home,
provided the registers in the rooms are correct for cooling purposes.
Not every warm air heating register will work satisfactorily. Cooled
air must be directed straight up to the ceiling.
PROPER
VOLTAGE AND WIRING The compressor motor and the blower motors
of your unit were designed to operate on 230 volt single phase power.
If the voltage is too low, the unit will not deliver its full capacity.
Excessive dimming of lights and blowing of fuses is an indication
of low voltage.
Length
and sizing of wiring can create a low voltage condition. Check your
manual for wire size. If wiring is not the problem, ask for assistance
from your power company.
PROPER
SIZING The size of your cooling equipment should be selected
by a competent dealer or engineer. Do not attempt to do it yourself.
This is extremely important to your comfort and to your purse. A
unit that is too small will not remove enough heat to cool the air
sufficiently, but will satisfactorily reduce the humidity because
it will operate continuously in hot weather. One that is much oversized
will do a good cooling job but will not remove sufficient humidity
on hot and "muggy" days.
SHADE
AIDS COOLING Glass areas exposed to the sun are responsible
for a very substantial amount of the heat that enters a home. The
sun not only heats the glass, but also all the surfaces indoors
that it shines upon. The most effective way of eliminating this
heat is to keep the sun off the glass areas and windows. Exterior
awnings and sun shades will offer partial protection. Screen shades,
venetian blinds and heavy draperies will also help. Trees that shade
the home are of inestimable value. The orientation of the home and
its position on the lot can mean much to the cooling system.
The
next step is to reduce the heat and moisture released within the
home that place an additional burden on the cooling system and may
cause inadequate cooling. This is where you must learn to live with
the cooling system and realize its limitations.
COOKING
Families living in air conditioned homes have better appetites than
those in homes which are not air conditioned. Cooking releases a
large amount of heat and moisture. A kitchen range with all burners
operating can release more heat than a two or three ton cooling
unit can remove if it did nothing else. A kitchen ventilating fan
should always be running while cooking is in process. A kitchen
window should be slightly open to replace the air that the fan moves
out.
MOPPING
AND CLEANING Mopping floors, washing furniture and other cleaning
operations requiring water will release moisture into the air as
the wet surfaces dry. These operations should be done on a cool
day, or at least during the coolest part of a warm day when the
full cooling capacity of the equipment is not required.
DRYING
CLOTHES Laundry, including baby clothes and lingerie, should
never be dried indoors when cooling. The water released from the
clothes enters the air and then must be removed by the cooling equipment.
Never
permit an automatic clothes drier to discharge its heat and moisture
inside an air conditioned home. It will place a load upon the cooling
unit that may cause discomfort for hours. Many complaints of unsatisfactory
cooling have been traced to this one cause. Dryers must be vented
to the outdoors.
IRONING
CLOTHES A hand Iron or a mangle releases heat into the air,
the difference between the two only being in the amount of heat
released. Ironing should be done on a cool day or late in the evening
when the cooling system has reserve capacity and can remove this
extra heat without noticeable difficulty.
ODORS
An air conditioning system will remove odors from the home that
are dust-borne because the dust will be eliminated by the filters
and the wet surfaces of the cooling coil. Incidentally, the water
that drips off the cooling coil is not equivalent to distilled water,
since it is filled with dust, germs, and dust-borne odors.
BATHS
AND SHOWERS Tub and shower baths release heat and moisture (steam)
into the air. A shower bath releases more than a tub bath and, of
course, the longer the shower, the more the released heat and moisture.
A bathroom ventilating fan in operation while baths are being taken
will remove that heat and moisture. Do not use a shower curtain
that absorbs water. Use one made of plastic materials or other nonabsorbent
materials.
ENTERTAINING
Your cooling system was designed and sized to keep you and your
family comfortable and probably will not be large enough to keep
an additional 10 or 15 people comfortable on a hot day. Lowering
the thermostat setting will not help. This is one of the things
you should learn to live with.
DUST,
DIRT AND POLLENS Your cooling unit will remove dirt, dust and
pollens. Many hay-fever patients report considerable relief in an
air conditioned house during the pollen season.
CLEAN THE FILTERS A filter should be replaced periodically,
possibly every two weeks during the cooling season. A dirty filter
affects the operation of the equipment by reducing the amount of
air that can circulate through the cooling unit.
DOORS
AND WINDOWS Windows should remain closed throughout the cooling
season. Opening them lets in warm air and often highly humid air,
particularly at night. Do not open the doors more often than necessary
and then for as short a period as possible. It usually costs more
to cool a home with children that are running in and out frequent
intervals because each time the door is opened warm air comes in.
WINDOW
COVERINGS Windows on the east,south and west sides of the home
that are not protected from the sun on the outside should be protected
on the inside with venetian blinds or heavy draperies. Keep them
closed or drawn when the sun is on their side. Inside protection
against sun will not be as effective as outside protection but it
will help tremendously.
DON'T
TURN THE EQUIPMENT OFF AND ON Equipment that is thermostatically
controlled should be allowed to operate as required throughout the
cooling season. The thermostat will operate the unit only as necessary
to keep you comfortable and requires no help. There are technical
reasons why uninterrupted operations are the most satisfactory.
THERMOSTAT
SETTING A temperature of 76 to 78 degrees is preferred by most
people. You may select a lower temperature setting if you wish and
you will probably have that temperature a good portion of the time.
But do not be disappointed and condemn the equipment if the temperature
gets a few degrees warmer during a very hot afternoon. Most systems
are designed for a maximum cooling that will maintain the indoor
temperature 15 to 20 degrees below the normal maximum outdoor temperature
and they cannot do much better than that. Set the indicator at the
temperature agreeable to the family and leave it there.
THERMAL
SHOCK A physical thermal shock to the body of a person going
out of or into an air conditioned space, so often associated with
cooling during hot weather, has been no major problem with residential
cooling. There appears to be no dangerous physical shock to a normally
healthy person entering or leaving an air conditioned space although
the change may be temporarily unpleasant. This, however, may not
be the case with persons in ill health, and with such persons, the
greater the difference in temperature between the air conditioned
space and the outdoors, the greater the reaction or discomfort will
be. Mothers with small children who go in and out of doors frequently
have avoided the possibility of this by maintaining a slightly higher
temperature indoors.
STALE
AIR If the air appears to be stale, it is because the house
remains closed and relatively little outdoor air gets in, and the
system re-circulates much of the same air over and over again. Your
dealer can correct this by arranging for the introduction of a small
amount of outdoor air into the cooling system. This will result
in a slight increase in the cost of operation. There are many more
things that have not been mentioned that you can do to help your
air conditioning equipment maintain the comfort you want. Many of
these you will recognize as they present themselves. If you will
remember to minimize the release of heat and moisture indoors on
a hot day and learn to live with the air conditioner, you will be
comfortable. Folks who live in air conditioned homes generally have
better health, eat better, stay home more, along with countless
other blessings that only domestic air conditioning can bring.
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